Ender 3 pro extruder skipping steps, tried multiple things

  • I've already asked this question somewhere else but unfortunately I had little luck.



    So... my Ender 3 Pro extruder just started skipping steps, as in the gears (and the gear pinion) will rotate but the filament won't flow. It all started when I changed PLA filament to a new roll; I thought it might have been the roll faulty so I've tried a spool that had been working fine until 2 hours before it all started. Nope, skipping with that one as well.



    Here's what I've tried doing so far:




    • Replaced the stock PTFE tubing with Capricorn tubing.

    • Checked that the tubing is tight and does not have play.

    • Replaced the whole extruder system (except for the extruder motor) with a metal Creality system.

    • Performed various cold pulls.

    • Replaced the nozzle.

    • Upped the extruding temperature from 195 °C to 205 °C.

    • Checked that there's the correct distance between the bed and the nozzle.

    • Yelled at the printer.

    • Asked for advice to my cats.



    None of the above worked, and my cats looked funny at me. Print settings as below:




    • Filament diameter in the slicer 1.75mm (yes I've checked).

    • Temperature: 195 °C, upped to 205 °C.

    • Print speed: from 20 mm/s for the first layers to 50 mm/s for the infill.



    I've also reverted back to the old PTFE tubing as I noticed that the Capricorn was giving too much resistance to the filament. Nope, still skipping.



    I've noticed that the extruder gear grips quite firmly onto the filament, so much so that when it starts slipping it actually eats away the filament until it breaks. It's almost like there's a clog somewhere but the tubing is clear, the hot end is clear (I've cleared it and checked multiple times), and the nozzle is brand new.



    What else can I try? Have I missed something? Apart from the changes listed above (carried out after the extruder started skipping), the printer is absolutely stock, firmware and everything.



    UPDATE: I've changed the factory hot end bloc with a brand new one, changed PTFE tubing one again, making sure it's as close as possible to the nozzle (unscrew nozzle 1/2 turn, fit PTFE, screw nozzle in) but it didn't change anything at all.



    The extruder still skips steps as it can't push the filament out of the nozzle. Pushing it manually feels nice and smooth until it hits the nozzle, where I can feel too much resistance.



    UPDATE 2: I've modifed the following parameters on the EEPROM to limit the filament flow:



    M203 Z5.00 E25.00
    M201 E1000


    I've also crancked the temperature up to 220°C but it made no difference whatsoever. What I've noticed is that, after cleaning hot end and tubing, it starts skipping after 1 hour of printing, every single time without fail.



    UPDATE 3: I've checked the input voltage from the PSU and it's 24V; the Vref for the extruder is 0.744V, so everything looks as expected.



    UPDATE 4: The extruder idler pulley has a compression washer to hold it in place without impeding idle spinning; it is usually mounted in the order idler pulley, compression washer and bolt. I've noticed that the pulley wasn't spinning freely this way, so I inverted the order to compression washer, idler pulley and bolt. The bolt head is small enough not to stop the pulley from spinning.



    I've also increased the pressure the spring arm excise on the idler pulley, so that the toothed pulley grips more firmly on the filament.



    This way I've managed to improve things although not solve them. It's been printing for the last 3 and a half hour without skipping but it's not a solution, as the toothed gear is chewing too aggressively on the filament. In just one hour a good deposit of PLA shavings has formed on the extruder, and I had to blow it away, and this never happened before this all started.


    To exclude the hot/cold end I would disable preventing cold extrusion (`M302 S0`) and disconnect the Bowden at the cold end and extrude, does it still skip? Also, look at the other side, is unspooling creating more friction?

    Can you elaborate on "Replaced the whole extruder system (except for the extruder motor) with a metal Creality system." ?

    @0scar Sorry I forgot to mention it, I did that yesterday and the filament extrudes without much problems so no skipping there. The spool is nicely spooled, so it's unraveling (is that a word?) nicely and without much resistance.

    @R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE The grey parts in this picture are made of aluminum, and I've changed them from the plastic ones installed by factory. They didn't help. Would a direct drive system help in this case?

    Update: I've changed the factory hot end bloc with a brand new one, changed PTFE tubing one again, making sure it's as close as possible to the nozzle (unscrew nozzle 1/2 turn, fit PTFE, screw nozzle in) but it didn't change anything at all. The extruder still skips steps as it can't push the filament out of the nozzle. Pushing it manually feels nice and smooth until it hits the nozzle, where I can feel too much resistance.

    I think you've learned that the issue is not related to the tubing and hotend. I would look into you stepper driver, I don't know if you can increase the Vref of the driver to allow more current through the stepper.

    @vale.maio2: Randomly replacing parts with aftermarket ones is not how you solve a problem with your printer not working, so no. There are pros and cons of switching to a direct drive extruder but "not having a direct drive extruder" is not your problem.

    @0scar It seems that the stock Ender 3 board allows for Vref adjustment, so I'll check that and I'll report back.

    @0scar I've checked the input voltage from the PSU and it's 24V; the Vref for the extruder is 0.744V, so everything looks as expected.

  • vale.maio2

    vale.maio2 Correct answer

    2 years ago

    So, after some day of yelling and disassembling, I figured out what was the issue. As many were suggesting, I indeed had an issue with the tubing lifting from the nozzle. it was lifting, so PLA was slowly infiltrating where it wasn't supposed to be to the point it created a blockage, resulting in skipping.



    However, no amount of cleaning and reseating the tubing got rid of it. i've also changed, again, nozzle, tubing and pneumatic fittings to higher quality ones to no avail.



    I got absolutely fed up and bought a direct drive conversion kit. One of the cheap ones, reusing most of the stock hardware, including stock extruder and gears. The idea, for me, behind it was that the mass of the extruder, and the much shorter length of tubing, meant that the tubing had no space to move around and let the PLA out.



    It looks like it's working so far, I'm 6 hours in on a 10 hours print with no skipping at all. I also managed to ease the pressure that the extruder arm excise on the filament, so it's not being chewed anymore and I'm not seeing any PLA shavings so far.


    So it was basically what I said...

    I'm pretty sure CHEP has a good video or two on dealing with this problem if you have it. It's certainly not a reason to change to a direct drive extruder unless that makes sense for you for other reasons.

    Those would be https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fb4XMbZ0iA4. But I think as long as your bowden tube is cut right, not damaged from wear/heat, and properly inserted, you don't need any of this. You just need to make sure it's installed far enough down to butt up tightly with the nozzle. Unscrew the nozzle a bit while inserting it to let the tube go down farther, then tighten the nozzle back against it.

    @R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE Yes it's exactly what you said but, even after following ALL of those steps, multiple times, I still had the same issue, over and over again. As I said, the weight of the whole direct drive system now keeps the short piece of tubing in place.

    This is a very common problem with bowden systems in general, and Ender 3s in particular. Mine underextruded from the day I bought it, until I pulled out the tube and re-cut it flat, broke two couplers trying to squeeze it in enough to prevent gaps and finally got it working. That lasted a few months before oozing again, so I gave up and switched to a direct drive system, too. Probably the same one you have. Zero problems since.

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Content dated before 7/24/2021 11:53 AM