There are no settings that you should need to change. Rather, it seems like you are suffering from another issue that is not directly related to layer height.

It is possible that your hotend's heat sink is not being cooled enough, causing heat to migrate up and soften plastic in the heat sink, ultimately jamming it. Depending on your hotend's make, the heat sink should be cooled by a fan that is always on.

Normally, the plastic being fed into the hotend provides some cooling, but printing at a thinner layer height decreases this effect because less plastic is fed into the hotend per time unit.

I agree with Tom's answer, it seems that temperature slowly makes it's way up your heat sink and softens the plastic which causes the jam.

Even though you should first check your hardware to make sure that hotend cooling is installed correctly, to directly address your original question as to what setting needs to be changed, I would suggest lowering your printing temperature. When printing finer layers, the plastic moves slower in the hotend, spending more time in the heater block, possibly making your current temperature setting too high for this resolution.

Yes, That is what happens. There is a reason that most people cannot break the .1mm barrier.

You have several things happening. First if you are using a bowden. Good luck. The bowden treats plastic a lot like a spring. Just wont be able to generate a consistent pressure.

The direct gear will have the same issue. You are trying to spit out 0.1mm on a 0.5mm nozzle. Factor in some simple drooling and your dot of plastic is missing. You wouldn't think it matters, but when we are using such tiny amounts of plastic, and consistently throughout the print, it makes for a really bad result!

Then you have more issues. This is why you jam. You now have a lot of plastic sitting, not being expelled. When you go from 0.2mm to 0.1mm you now take twice the time. Considering the printer was made to print at a 0.7 to 0.2 range (more or less). We are talking about a fair time for this plastic to sit molten, waiting to come out. Some have mentioned the heat crawl, but not exactly what happens or a solution. Now you do a retraction, and you just retracted molten plastic. Which gets jammed. Or your plastic cooks, carbonizes faster and clogs your hotend. Sad times! What you can do is ... turn off retraction, and then increase your flow / extrusion multiplier to account for the extra drooling. Part will have a lot of stringing, but a quick burst from a lighter fixes most of that.

You can get better results with a hotend that has a fan and heat sink / break. I like the e3d hot ends. That will stop the heat crawl.

I will note that Makergear once sent me an experimental 0.1mm nozzle. It could not build enough pressure to expel the plastic. I got one tiny bunny, half melted before it clogged from aforementioned carbonization.

Sounds like to me you really just need a form 1, or you are a tinkerer like me. Making the printer go twice the speed is much more fun than high quality.