Filament lifts from the hot bed while printing
I have a Tevo Tarantula 3D printer.
I'm trying to print a calibration cube.
The slicer is Cura and is set for a 1.75 mm filament extruded by a nozzle of 0.4 mm, with a heat bed temperature of 60°C and extruder 200°C.
As seen in the image I stopped the printer after a minute, when I noticed that the filament wasn't sticking to the hotbed.
I've also made other tests, but the result is the same - the upper right part of the print lifts and touches the moving nozzle.
How could I resolve this? Any advice?
Is the print bed clean? Is the print bed actually reaching the correct temperature? Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and "presses on" to the print bed. Maybe the filament, for the first few layers, should be heated at a high temperature, than the rest of the print, to ensure adhesion.
The bed should reach the correct temperature, that is measured by a thermo resistor and displayed on the printer LCD as 60°C. Yes, I've manually calibrated the printer, maybe I should check again doing this trial with a paper sheet. A thing that I didn't do was to clean the bed, maybe this should do the trick.
Check the following:
- Is the print bed clean? On glass, you can use a few squirts of window cleaner.
- Is the print bed actually reaching the correct temperature?
- Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and "presses on" to the print bed. See the video #18:Calibration for a great explanation on the use of the paper. Whilst this video is for a Delta printer, it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.
- Maybe the filament, for the first few layers, should be heated at a high temperature, than the rest of the print, to ensure adhesion.
If all of the above are checked and OK, then (as electrophile points out in their answer) try making the print head more grippy. This can be achieved by simply adding a thin coating to the glass with one of the following:
- Wiping the glass with a glue stick or wood glue
- Using hairspray
Both use PVA as an adhesive/stiffener.
Or by adding an additional print surface, such as:
- Using blue painters tape
- Using PEI tape
- Using Kapton tape
- Using BuildTak
If adding tape, then the printer may require a small re-calibration, due to the thickness of the tape adding a few microns to the print bed height. This can be done in the firmware.
I don't have this specific printer but this used to happen to me as well on my D-Bot. The reason being bed not being leveled properly. Ensure that your bed is leveled such that the distance between the nozzle and bed is about 0.2mm after homing. Also coat your bed with something sticky like glue or hairspray. You won't need this if you are using a PEI sheet.
material sticking problem can be due to following reason:
- bed level
- bed temperature
- z motion calibration (ex if not calibrated layer height is 0.2 and z move 0.4 then material cant stick on bed)
- bed surface (for sticking first layer on bed what you use)
remove all above reason step by step
- first confirm bed level
- bed temperature according to material (pla - 70 , abs - 100 )
all above option are good but warpping chance are higher
for last bed surface you have following option to use
use paper tape
use Kapton tape
use paste (accetone + abs) abs melt into accetone and it become like cream and you can apply on bed after bed heating
if you are using last option then just confirm bed level again before start print