SLA prints not sticking to build plate

  • I have been working with our SLA printer (Facture Draken) for a couple weeks now printing in makerjuice waxcast. . I have had some successful prints, but the majority (80%) end up as pancakes stuck to the bottom of the resin tray. Some others break in half mid print.

    I have experimented with laying my models (round circular diks) flat on the build plate, but most of the times I place them on supports which stem from a square baseplate.

    It seems clear to me that there is allot of force being put on the models while curing on the bottom of the resin tray. I have noticed that printing objects with a larger projection area are more likely to stick in the vat. I assume this is because of the increased contact with the tray. Usually it seems ~10 layers are built before my baseplate breaks away.

    Things I have tried

    • Pulling out the build plate, cleaning it with Acetone. Sanding it with 80 grit sandpaper.

    • Emptying the resin tray and replacing with new resin.

    • Upping base-layer cure-time from from 30seconds up to 3 minutes, and variations between.

    • Upping base-layer count from 2 to 4.

    • Rotating model base 45% to start the tray peel process from a corner rather than from a long edge to reduce initial tear force.

    Anyone with experience got more suggestions on how to continue troubleshooting?

    Ive bought a new resin tray, should be arriving sometime soon. Ill keep you all updated on progress.

    I'm new to SLA printing and am not entirely sure about the accuracy of these infos (thus not an answer), but there's one thing I haven't seen mentioned in the answers: my printer has a vat with a FEP film. This can become too sticky (via scratches and dents) and then needs to be replaced. I've read that using a small amount of teflon lubricant can help in this case as well so the cured resin doesn't stick to the FEP film any more.

  • Shahin

    Shahin Correct answer

    5 years ago

    Prints could end up on tray for couple of reasons.

    • Vacuum force on early layers - Usually you should lose pieces on the center of platform

      • Put holes or channels on platform

      • Very slow speed on early layers

      • Use smaller platform

      • Use tilt mechanism

      • Use larger support structures

      • Use stickier platform - Anodized aluminum is specially good

    • Non-aligned platform - Pieces on side of platform end up on tray

      • Align platform / tray

    • Low cure times - you could lose pieces around platform for DLP and whole platform for LCD ones

    • Resin related issues

      • Resin designed for thinner layers - Decrease layer thickness

      • Pigment settled down - Shake resin before use

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Content dated before 7/24/2021 11:53 AM