Instead of replacing the bed, you could invest in a silicone heating element and top it off with a piece of (Borosilicate) glass.

If the printer board has exposed headers to attach a heated bed, which is possible, but not certain, you could use an SSR (solid state relay) to power the bed using the signal from the board to set the temperature. Alternatively use a thermostat for an incubator to create the signal for the SSR. Note that all these parts can be sourced from those typical online websites.

In case the wires of the silicone heater stick out, use a layer of cork where you cut out space for the cables and thermistor.

I mounted four 10 W resistors under the bed and connected them in parallel to the SKR1.4 board, I installed in the mini.
If you still have the original board, you can connect the resistor to any power source with enough power to drive the load, preferably 24 V.

I decided to go the way of a silicon heat pad (12V/24V) 200 W. I got the unit and a 3 mm glass bed. Clipped it to the aluminum, and promptly the head crashed into the side of the bed!

Lesson learned. The Mini in order to go home transitions to a spot at the front of the bed and actually lower than the bed. This is so that you can level the bed manually by adjusting 4 screws on the gantry. The gantry sits on the bed thus leveling it to the bed. Because of this, there is only about 4 mm of height available.

One individual who added a heated placed a riser under the z-axis to overcome this limitation. My other thought is to replace the aluminum bed with a glass bed and have the heater on either side of the bottom gantry as there is about 2 mm space there. Since there is an end stop the unit is using others have simply moved this up to match the new height of the bed.

I am assuming [HOW TO] Da Vinci Mini Heatbed Conversion would have attempted a software patch before doing a physical riser. While in some ways I would feel better raising the riser, I decided to extend the tab on the extruder head to intercept the sensor instead.