Creality CR-10 Clogs and Underextrusion - Filament at fault?

  • I've been printing successfully on my CR-10 for the past year now. I've had issues now and then but have been able to look around the internet and solve them. I've been using some Flashforge white PLA with great results.

    The whitePLA I've been using so far without much issues

    Last week I got a couple of new rolls of filament, black and orange. SinceI tried printing with them, I've got nothing but jams. The white prints fine, however.

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    I dug around online and found this was happening to my printer:

    So yesterday I opened up my hotend to clean it out and got quite a bit of gunk out:

    enter image description here

    I also changed my nozzle. I printed some with the old white PLA and printed fine. The moment I switched over to the new orange filament, it jammed after a few layers.

    I ensured my nozzle was tightened and then got to measuring the filament. The older white one is 1.75mm in most places with some at 1.73mm.

    The new ones that I got are pretty inconsistent - the orange one ranging from 1.68mm to 1.72mm; I found very few places where it was actually 1.75mm. The black one averaged 1.72mm.

    So I made the change in my slicer but even then the first layer was visibly underextruding and it jammed soon after. I took apart the hotend and cleaned it out. Now, I put the white one back and its back printing fine.

    Should I go ahead and return the filament?

    What is the advertised tolerance on the black filament?

    Welcome to 3D Printing, btw!

    @arunabha42 Did you check what is the best temperature of printing? I used to print at 190°C but with one kind of brand I had to change to 210°C; now I have another supplier and I had to back to 190°C and 195°C for faster printing.

    that black stuff looks to be printed too hot, colors can affect temp...

  • Not all filaments are created equal. Even with the very same manufacturer, the addition of colorful pigments can change the needed printing temperature a lot! I have had a white china PLA that was giving ok quality at 200°C, but the same brand's clear PLA only took 195°C to print. My white Kaisertech prints better at the 200°C while orange needs a little more, something about 205°C - this is the same brand and manufacturer mind you. The matte "natural" PLA I have even needs some more heat, 210°C.

    As a rule of thumb: Printing temerature is filament dependant. Test around (there are temperature tests - use them!) to find the ideal one for each brand and color combo you have.

    It is also a goood idea to replace the claps on the Bowden tube, if the plugs appear more often.

  • From attached pictures I can see that some of the printouts are not sticking enough to the bed (that can be a non-leveled bed).

    As you are printing directly on the glass ensure that the area is clean (no fat or other organic substances - clean with alcohol or another grease remover) or use a PVA glue to get better adhesion.

    If the Z height is to low it can clog the nozzle, if to high then print will not stick.

    good point on adhesion, though in this case probably coupled with temperature as the white material OP uses seems to work fine without changes.

    @Trish that all can be down to the add-ons in PLA, another issue can be wobbling Z, but that one is rather a Tevo Tarantula domain :) than CR10

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Content dated before 7/24/2021 11:53 AM