Bed too close to nozzle?
I've been having some bed adhesion problems that I have been trying to solve by leveling the bed. I think that it's pretty level now but when I start a print the lines seem pretty flat. Is this true? I used a feeler gauge to have a 0.2 mm gap between the bed and nozzle, but the center feels as though there's more space, despite the tape (ie I didn't feel any resistance when leveling the center) so I'm not sure if the plastic is too squished or not.
I am printing PLA with 210 °C at Nozzle and 60 °C on bed. I also used a 130% extrusion factor for the first layer on a Creality CR-10S. It did come without a black print surface but with a glass sheet and a roll of painters tape instead, so I opted for Blue-tape.
Also, I see some stringing, which seems to happen with skirts and brims (this is my first brim) and a bit of under extrusion in the center. But those are probably concerns fit for a separate question.
It matters a lot! Is it a bowden or a direct drive are the main differences, but also if the bed is heated or not. Most of these info comes from the printer type. CR-10S is a bowden with a heated bed... and should come with a Build-Tak, yet you added blue tape... is that a mod (removed buildTak-clone)?
It did not come with Build-Tak. In the package there was a sheet of masking tape, but I have seen/read somewhere that the included tape is garbage and just use painter's tape.
ok, that is good to know - oddly enough there are like 10 slightly different itterations of CR10 out there, about 3 or 4 of them under the label 10S. So you have bare aluminium. Do you have chosen a bed temperature? all information I have is, that all 10S should have a jeated bed.
Yeah, I just learned last night that there is a 10S Pro, which is different from the S4, S5. Creality is getting out of hand... I have bare aluminum and a glass sheet on top. I set the bed temp to 60 (and edited the question to reflect that).
imho, too close is better than too far; if it's not grinding it's not too close.
No, the bed does not look too close to the nozzle, it could well be that it is too far from the nozzle. However, the brim looks okay, but the method you follow is questionable.
Using a feeler gauge of 0.2 mm is larger than the recommended paper method which is in the order of half that value (0.1 mm). You compensate this larger leveling gap with an over-extrusion of 130 %. The preferred method is using a thinner feeler gauge or a sheet of paper without over-extrusion. The reasoning is that if you have a 0.2 mm to start with, adding the first layer thickness (e.g. 0.2 mm) would imply that you are already starting at a 0.4 mm gap on your first layer. You now try to push out more filament to fill that gap (resulting in not really pressing the filament to the plate).
Furthermore, your tape does not look like it is laid down next to each other, it looks as though it is laid over each other. This creates an uneven bed surface.
Finalizing, you should do whatever you do to get the filament to stick to the build plate, if it works for you, use it. If it doesn't produce viable prints, or you are not satisfied with the surface finish, change it.
I tried 0.1 mm but something seemed off so I changed it back. I don't remember what the problem was because I've had a myriad of problems since that adjustment. I've been able to print a couple of things despite my apparent large gap, but having to tolerate poor beginning layers. Guess I'm back to leveling some more. :)
Thanks for the comment on the tape. I wondered if that would be a concern. I could have sworn that was how I saw it done on YouTube, but to be honest I wasn't paying that much attention.
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Content dated before 7/24/2021 11:53 AM
Lux Claridge 4 years ago
I'm not sure why it would matter as this should be a pretty general thing to troubleshoot, but added just the same.