Rear wheel slipping out under load
My commuting/cyclocross bike (a Surly Crosscheck) has a problem.
If I tighten the quick release skewer to a normal level, sort of firm to close it, then if I step on the pedals hard at some point, the rear wheel basically comes right out of the dropouts.
To keep the wheel actually in the frame, I have to cinch the quick release down hard enough that I get a bit concerned about ever opening it again. The springs get mangled.
This is a somewhat recent development and appears to be getting worse. Any ideas?
If the springs get mangled that means the skewer is assembled incorrectly.
I had a similar problem on my Pugsley, though it was under braking (discs) that I was kicking the wheel around in the dropouts.
After talking with the guys at my LBS, I learned that I wasn't putting enough force into the quick release. They said that a good, tight, clamp should leave an imprint of the lever on your palm when you close it. It will be difficult to open, but not horrible. This measure of tightness has served me well so far.
I would also check to ensure that your clamping surfaces are clean (get rid of any excess lube which may have seeped in there). You can also look at the skewer itself to ensure it is a high quality skewer. The type of clamp (I don't know if the older style even exists anymore, but I do run into them from time to time) can make a difference as well as the roughness of the clamping surface. For a while I was using a pair of Surly Tuggnuts which have a smooth surface facing the frame which made my problem even worse.
I heard the same thing from several bike shops - the lever should leave a nice imprint in your palm once you force it shut.
I know the lever is shut hard enough, it's already the tightest of my bikes when I can still torque the rear wheel out. The surfaces are clean but look a bit polished. I will rough them up this weekend and see if that solves the problem.
I have seen this a few times where the axle is just a tad too long. No matter how tight you clamp your QR, it won't be snug enough. Did you buy the frame and build it up yourself? If it is the axle, you can pop the wheel out, remove the QR and take a file to one end or the other. Another possibility is the the wheel was built incorrectly and the axle actually needs to be moved back to center. Are the axle lengths on either side of the lock nuts (these are the nuts that hold the cones in place on the hub) equal?
Are the skewers internal-cam or external-cam?
Internal-cam QR skewers have more mechanical advantage and allow for more clamping force. They're also less affected by dirt and crud. If you don't have internal-cam skewers, get some.
I have this problem myself. Take it as a compliment from your bike--it means you're capable of putting a lot of torque/power through the rear wheel!
For me, the solution was to do what you've been doing--clamp down and take your wheel off sparingly. A better solution would be to purchase a quick release skewer with a rougher interface with the dropout. It might chew up the surface and your paint a little bit, but it will help prevent slippage.
PROBLEM SOLVED! I got a 3/8 inch stainless lock washer (Everbilt Part
#597 618 package of 2 for 60 cents) at Home Depot. I put one lock washer on the drive side of the rear wheel skewer. I positioned the lock washer on the skewer between the outside clamp/nut and the spring so that when the wheel is mounted the lock washer is between the frame and the outside clamp/nut on the outside of the frame.
Apparently, the slipping can result when the ridges in the dropout get worn off or clogged with something like paint when you do a rattlecan paint job.
UPDATE: OR NOT. I though that the lock washer had solved the problem. Well, it worked for about a week, but now the wheel is back to rubbing again. I have purchased an Ultegra internal cam type QR skewer to replace the weaker external cam QR skewer that came with the wheel. Hopefully this will have enough pressure to keep the wheel in the dropout.
Thanks for the great information on this thread. I'm having the same exact problem with my bike that has horizontal dropouts. I've been frustrated by the shifting rear wheel which usually happens on uphills and other inopportune moment. Even wrenching my QR super tight doesn't prevent the slipping. It's been an ongoing problem that has only been getting worse over time. After reading this thread I inspected my QR and sure enough, the cheap aluminum grips are totally worn down (see my pic below). Sheldon Brown recommends using QR with steel teeth on horizontal dropouts. I believe they also have steel inserts you can use along with aluminum QR. I'll let you know how it works out, but I'm feeling pretty confident about this fix.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html (scroll down to "Acorn-nut design" to see steel inserts)